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QUESTION: Is there a wrong way to compost? I’m not sure if I’m doing it right. Peter T

ANSWER: There’s not exactly a wrong way to compost, although there are items you should not include in your compost and best practices to follow if you want your compost to be completed as efficiently as possible and end up with the best final product you can create.

The reason we say there’s not a wrong way to compost is that unless you use a dangerous ingredient, no mistake you make when composting is irreversible—there’s always a way to restore balance to your compost pile and get things back on track. And while some people get very fussy with their composting, using all kinds of specialized tools and meticulously calculating the ratio of brown to green ingredients they use, this level of attention to detail is absolutely not necessary in order to successfully turn your materials into compost. 

In the paragraphs below, we’ll take a look at the easy way to compost, doing just the essentials necessary to get the finished product without a lot of fuss and confusion. We’ll also do a quick review of brown and green ingredients as well as what should not be used as a compost ingredient. 

To start composting, get a simple compost bin or tumbler (preferably with a lid), and set it up where you want to do your composting. If you convert a container that isn’t meant for composting, make sure it has air holes at least in the bottom, and preferably in the sides as well. If your container doesn’t have air holes, drill a bunch in its bottom and sides. 

Then start throwing in your compost materials, trying to keep the balance between carbon-rich “brown” and nitrogen-rich “green” ingredients about half and half, as measured by weight. Just aim for an eyeballed estimate in the ballpark of half and half; don’t get too wrapped up in making sure the balance of ingredients is perfect unless you enjoy it. 

If you want to turn your compost every few weeks, it will be ready to use more quickly than if you don’t turn it, but turning your compost is not required. Neither is concerning yourself with the hydration level (though if you want to monitor moisture, shoot for the dampness of a wrung-out sponge). Just keep on adding ingredients, and eventually, the bottom of your compost bin will have a layer of mature compost that’s ready to use. 

Here’s what you can include in composting and what should be avoided:

The following items are great composting ingredients and count as “brown” carbon-rich materials.

• Dried-out plant materials, such as dried leaves (leaves that have turned brown), dried grass trimmings (grass trimmings that have turned brown), and stale herbs
• Paper products, such as paper towels or sheets of paper
• Cardboard, such as toilet paper rolls and paper towel rolls
• Wood shavings and sawdust (Do not use wood that is pressure-treated.)
• Used hamster or gerbil bedding
• Shells and hulls from peanuts or other nuts (Do not use black walnut, as it is toxic to other plants.)
• Eggshells
• Dryer lint, dust from your vacuum bag, and other dust bunnies
• Ashes from wood (Include only in small amounts.)

The ingredients listed below are good for composting and function as nitrogen-rich “green” materials.

• Green plant materials, such as fresh grass trimmings, green plant foliage or pruned plants, spent flowers, algae, seaweed, or lake moss
• Coffee grounds and coffee filters
• Spent tea leaves and tea bags (as long as they do not contain plastic)
• Trimmings, scraps, and peelings from fruits and vegetables, leftover cooked or raw fruits and vegetables, or spoiled fruits and vegetables
• Leftover beer, coffee, wine, or fruit juice
• Manure from herbivores (such as cows, horses, sheep, chickens, and rabbits)
• Bat guano and newspaper used to line bird cages 
• Feathers
• Hair, fur from pets, and fingernail or toenail clippings

The materials listed below should not be used for composting.

• Meat products, dairy products, fish, and grease of any kind
• Poop from humans, dogs, cats, and any other animal that consumes meat
• Charcoal and coal ashes
• Plants that show signs of disease
• Invasive weeds
• Clippings from grass or other plants that have been treated with herbicides (weed killers)

QUESTION: Is rotted grass a good compost?

ANSWER: Grass clippings can make great compost, but to create it, you must mix small amounts of well-shredded grass with large amounts of well-shredded leaves. Grass is 80 percent water, so it decomposes and turns into valuable nutrient-rich compost in just a few short weeks.

QUESTION: Is mold OK for compost?

ANSWER: Mold is part of the composting process. Mold is often spotted on dead matter, as it signifies full decomposition. As long as it is mixed properly, mold is not harmful in compost. Mold typically has a cotton-like texture and generally appears as green, black, white, or pink.

The color of mold is often determined by the type of material it feeds on, as well as the climate and region in which it is growing. White mold is commonly found on wood in compost and is a sign that your compost is decomposing correctly when found in hot composting systems. Green mold is the most common mold found in compost and is most common when there is a lot of food waste in your pile. Pink mold is caused by cleaning substances and should be removed if spotted in your compost pile.

QUESTION: Is it normal to have flies in compost?

ANSWER: Vinegar flies are common in compost piles, as they are attracted to fermenting or rotting fruit. As long as you avoid adding meat or bones to your compost pile, you won’t attract any typical houseflies. If you have a problem with flies in your compost, the best way to discourage them from staying in your pile is to turn and mix the contents of your pile daily.

Continue turning the pile daily until the larvae die and the flies move on to calmer environments. Once the flies have abandoned your pile, reduce turning to once or twice per week.

QUESTION: Is home compost acidic or alkaline?

ANSWER: Most finished compost is pretty close to neutral on the pH scale. The pH of mature compost  mostly varies between slightly acidic and near neutral, and very occasionally, some is found to be slightly alkaline. Mature compost generally has a pH between 6 and 8.